Small problems always appear during the use of an electric vehicle. Today an experienced mechanic walks you through them!

1. How long should the new battery of a newly bought electric vehicle be charged the first time? Should I use it up before charging, or charge it first?

Answer: The first charge must be a full one. If the battery is low, charge it for about eight hours; if it is already nearly full, keep charging for half an hour after the charger light turns green. After that, recharge whenever it is convenient, and do not run the charge down to the lowest point. It is best to recharge when about 60%-70% of the capacity remains, and be careful not to overcharge.

2. My battery shows full in less than two hours of charging. Does it need repair?

Answer: This happens because the battery has aged and no longer holds a charge; it needs to be replaced. There is basically no way to repair it.

3. The paint on my electric vehicle is chipped in places. Can it be fixed?

Answer: For a small area you can use spray paint plus clear coat; for a larger area consider a vinyl wrap. If you are handy, buy wrap film online and apply it yourself; it is very cheap.

4. The whole vehicle has no power. How should this be handled?

Answer:

(1) Check the battery and whether its output wire ends have broken solder joints.

(2) Check whether the fuse and fuse holder are in good condition.

(3) Check whether the power ignition lock works properly.

5. The vehicle has power but will not move. How should this be handled?

(1) Check whether the battery output is normal. If the output voltage is too low, the battery is damaged and must be replaced urgently.

(2) Disconnect the brake lever line. If the vehicle then runs, the brake lever is faulty and must be replaced or repaired; use a meter to check whether the lever circuit stays closed (an ordinary normally-closed brake lever).

(3) Check the throttle grip. Briefly jumper the grip's positive and signal wires with a piece of wire; if the vehicle moves, the grip is damaged and needs urgent replacement or repair. With the power on, twist the grip and measure the positive and signal wires with a multimeter; they should read about +5V (1-4V).

(4) To test the controller, briefly jumper the +5V on the throttle wiring; if the motor turns, the controller is fine. The simplest method is to smell the controller: a burnt odor proves the controller is damaged.

(5) Check the motor; poor contact of the motor carbon brushes can also cause power present but no movement.

6. On my newly bought electric vehicle the headlight does not go out immediately when switched off; it waits ten-odd seconds. Is that a feature of the vehicle or a broken headlight?

Answer: Some models have a headlight delay-off function, and yours probably does. Do not worry.

7. The vehicle is built with a 250W motor and a 150W controller. Can this be modified?

Answer: No. A 250W motor can be paired with a 350W controller, which works with a 1-4 throttle; but a 150W controller cannot drive a 250W motor, because its maximum output is only 150W, which basically cannot power the motor.

8. Why do motors and batteries differ so much in service life?

Answer: In the early development of electric vehicles, 150W-180W motors with 12AH batteries were generally used, and a battery could last 2-3 years. As output kept rising and customers complained about slow speed, motors went to 350W-500W and batteries to 17AH-20AH, yet battery life dropped to 6-10 months. Some manufacturers tout 700W motors to prove high output power, while battery life keeps shrinking, which proves speed is not everything.

9. Why doesn't my battery really deliver the mileage you advertise?

Answer: Either the dealer exaggerated the mileage, or the battery is used improperly. And in winter, roughly 30% of a lead-acid battery's discharge capacity stays stored inside due to the cold, so the actual riding distance is somewhat less than stated.